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ALILA UBUD
The second leg of our Balinese
experiment in work/life balance was
centred at the Alila resort, in the
majestic rainforest of Ubud. More
intimate in setting and scope, Alila Ubud
honors the green valley of the Ayung
river by blending with its surrounds and
becoming one with its environment.
We arrive early afternoon, winding
our way through picture-perfect rice
paddies, dotted with farmers wearing
traditional conical hats. All around us is
lush, green, dense, jungle life. The light
drizzle of rain, which arrives on the
dot at 3pm every afternoon, helps to
provide welcome cool and, along with
the sound of monkeys making their
way along the treetops, adds to the
surreal experience.
The resort is perched on a clearing at
the top of the valley and, like Ubud's rice
paddies, is terraced, gentling clinging to
the natural slope of the land.
Our villa, one of four newly
constructed additions to the property,
sits on stilts and juts out over the deep
valley. The external and interior design
is exactly to our taste ­ rectangular and
open plan with clean lines and white on
white with oak accents. It's a little slice
of Scandinavia in the jungle.
The setting is absolutely serene ­ the
wallofglassandhuge`floating'outdoor
terrace ensure a seamless connection
with the rich green of the valley.
We have to tear ourselves away from
what already feels like home to explore
the rest of the facilities.
Many world-class resorts have a
`calling card' ­ a feature that stands out
and becomes a symbol that
epitomises your experience.
While I think this is limiting,
it's also understandable if
trying to encapsulate a place
in one or two sentences.
For Ayana in Jimbaran,
the calling card is the Rock
Bar; for Alila Ubud it's the
swimming pool. Dramatically
designed, the emerald-green
pool is perched on a terrace
yet appears suspended over
the valley like a diving board,
beckoning you to jump in
and plumb to the depths of this deeply
tranquil land.
Tranquility is the perfect word
to describe the feeling generated by
Alila Ubud. This feeling is a product
of the unbelievably friendly staff (all
locals), the design (a fusion of natural
and modern elements), the cuisine
(authentic Balinese interpreted through
modern French techniques) and, of
course, the signature setting.
We venture into Ubud town to visit
the monkey forest, eat scrumptious
suckling pig at Ibu Oka, delicate crispy
duck at Bebek Bengil and barbecue ribs
accompanied by mammoth martinis at
Naughty Nooris ­ all institutions and
must-dine destinations.
We were also keen to gain firsthand
experience of the spirituality that
imbues all aspects of life in Bali and,
in particular, unspoilt villages such as
Payangan, where Alila is located.
After donning traditional garb,
we are driven to the house of the
local priest and spiritual leader of
the community for an authentic
blessing ceremony, after which we
visit a Balinese astrologer for a
mystical reading of our characters and
personalities.
As satisfying as this explosion of
experience is, it's the peace and comfort
of our villa and infinity pool that we
crave ­ our own slice of rainforest has
effortlessly worked its way in to our
hearts.
One day slowly drifts in to the
other, punctuated here and there by an
amazing meal from executive chef Eelke
Plasmeijer (some say he's the best in
Bali), or by another luxurious massage
experience at Spa Alila. By now the
stress of work and hectic pace of life in
Sydney is a distant memory.
As with Ayana, the most
overwhelming impression made by
Alila Ubud is by its people. The resort
is true to its motto ­ `Hospitality, more
than standards, a way of life'.
Leaving Alila Ubud is bittersweet.
We want to stay longer (and vow to
come back) but are keen to experience
the rare grandeur, bespoke services and
modern design of Alila Soori, the third
and final leg of our holiday, located
within the picturesque, fertile Tabanan
Regency on Bali's southwest coast.
ESCAPE
37
The Private Practice
Autumn 2013