comments on this unique experience.
Shogetsutei we visit the gardens and eat
traditional and modern meals both in and
out of our hotel highlights include the local
delicacies of Tajima Beef and Snow Crab.
We explore the whole town and incrementally
deepen our state of relaxation with repeated
visits to both communal hot springs and the
private spa-like cabana at our hotel. We all
become one with Kinosaki.
ride away is a state-of-the art marine park.
More than an aquarium, this is the most
technologically advanced and futuristic
facility of its kind any of us have ever seen
it looks like a villain's lair from an early
James Bond movie.
and we all have an absolute ball. There are
seal, walrus and dolphin shows, fish feeding,
an enormous 12-metre deep aquarium
spanning three floors and, the highlight for
us, a huge manmade pond where you can hire
a rod and tackle, buy some bait and catch
your own tiny fish (the adjacent restaurant
will clean and cook them for you, tempura
style). We catch enough for lunch for four
and, washed down with an icy cold Sapporo
Beer, it's an excellent meal.
Kinosaki has been up to know, we are about
to take it up a notch. In fact, we are about
to have the most luxurious, authentic and
dreamlike experience of our holiday, courtesy
of the Nishimuraya Honkan a 150-year-
old inn (formerly a magistrates office) and
adjacent public bath.
1800s, the Honkan is considered by many to
be the country's number-one ryokan. We are
greeted by the manager and reception staff
with the formality and professionalism you
would expect from one of the great hotels
of the world, yet there is a warm twinkle
in their eyes, as if to hint at the gentle and
embracing hospitality to come.
Chinese, European and Japanese antique
furniture to the ancient-oak panelling, dim
sepia lighting and faint aroma of cypress
it sets the scene and lures us in.
It leads out onto the architecturally
designed central garden, around which all
four wings of the ryokan are built.
the respect that has gone in to every detail.
The kids quickly get their robes on and
scramble into the garden to feed the koi fish
and pose for pictures.
a subtle foot massage. Drinking our
welcome plum liqueur, we catch each other
struggling to process this sensory overload
and simply laugh. We don't leave the ryokan
why would you waste one precious moment
of this!
a ballerina. She anticipates our needs,
delivering drinks, snacks and food for the
koi, and she lays out our futons for sleep
then rolls and packs them away in
the morning.
like watching and actively participating
in fine theatre. The captivating service
brings me to a zen-like state that keeps me