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70
ESCAPE
design is defined not by how nice something
looks, but by how well it works.
CULTURAL EXPERIENCES
The geisha tradition is still alive and well
in Kyoto, and not just for tourist purposes.
With their white-painted faces, traditional
Japanese hairstyles and fabulous kimonos,
they can be found gliding through the
perfectly maintained medieval streets of the
Gion neighbourhood.
In Kyoto there are 100 maiko (apprentice
geisha), and 200 geiko (mature geisha).
Aged under 20, a maiko usually starts
her career as young as 15, working hard
to become a professional in Japanese
traditional culture and entertainment,
such as the fine art of flower arrangement,
performing tea ceremonies and mastering
traditional music and dance.
It really is a thrill to see them perform
with such poise and grace, and there are
various options for a geisha experience,
depending on your budget. On the food front,
no visit to Kyoto would be complete without
experiencing kaiseki, described by Anthony
Bourdain in Mind of a Chef as, "a multi-course
meal, ultra-refined, obsessively local and
seasonal and very traditional".
According to David Chang ­ the culinary
enfant terrible of the moment ­ Kikunoi in
Kyoto is, "one of the best restaurants in the
world, arguably the best Kaiseki restaurant in
Japan and an extraordinary experience".
I'm sorry to say that, sans babysitters,
dining at Kikunoi was not possible (we
overcame this impediment to fine dining at
our next port of call). But I thought the best
way to describe kaiseki and to explain the
different courses of the meal and how the
ingredients and dishes were closely tied to
each season was to quote Kikunoi owner and
chef Yoshihiro Murata's book.
Describing a meal served at the start of
cherry blossom season, Murata writes that
it would try to evoke "...feelings of sitting
under cherry blossom trees on a regal crimson
carpet, while watching the delicate pink petals
flutter elegantly to earth." (Sigh.)
We did manage a kid-friendly kaiseki
experience in Gion ­ not quite the three-hour
affair of Kikunoi but certainly a great first
taste of this extraordinary and theatrical
five sensory dining experience. To whet your
appetite further here's the description of one
of the 10 courses: Salt-pickled `firefly' squid
(hotaru ika), sushi with kinome, grilled squid,
fava beans, poached egg bearing octopus,
mountain yam `butterfly', lily bulb (yurine)
with ikura, skewer of prawn, avocado and tai
(red sea bream) liver pate.
Apart from temple worship, gastronomic
gluttony and hotel-lobby lounging, my wife
and daughter got fitted for kimonos, the
kids graduated from ninja school at the
Toei Samurai Movie studio, and we all rode
rickshaws through the serenely green
Bamboo Forest and visited every one of the
139 specialty shops at Nishiki Markets.
All activities are highly recommended.
BACK IN TIME
As splendid as our suburban Tokyo and cultural
Kyoto adventures have been, it's our next stop
in the town of Kinosaki that really blows us
away and is the real highlight of our trip.
Situated in Northern Hyogo Prefecture, on
Japan's western coast, Kinosaki is just under
three hours from Kyoto by train but a million
miles from care. Supposedly discovered in
the 8th century by a Buddhist saint, this
onsen (natural hot spring) town is where the
Japanese come to holiday, and it's clear why.
Life in the big city can be frenetic,
exhausting and depleting. Onsens provide
locals and visitors alike with the chance to
unwind and soak up the recuperative benefits
of submerging in the almost scaldingly hot,
mineral-rich water that emerges from the
centre of the earth.
We've done our research and know
that Kinosaki is renowned as sone of the