it's supposed to be quaint, unspoilt,
traditional and renowned for delicious
local crab, the quality and authenticity
of its ryokan (guest houses) and, of
course, for its famous communal baths.
the beautiful willow-lined streets
populated by invitingly authentic
eateries, dissected by an age-old
trickling river and criss-crossed
by ancient stone bridges that we
realise we've been transported several
centuries back in time to a place on
earth dedicated to restoring body,
mind and spirit. I feel as though I'm
quite literally in heaven!
like kids in a lolly shop, point at the
exotic sights and make mental notes on
where to return for a meal, a drink, a
family photo and deeper investigation.
One thing we are all puzzled by is the
fact that everyone, and I mean everyone,
in the streets is wearing Japanese robes
and wooden clogs. There's not a pair
of jeans or shorts, a t-shirt or a pair of
runners in sight.
soon realise that this is old Japan. It's
not done up to feel like or resemble
old Japan but is literally a place that
time forgot or, more accurately,
a place painstakingly kept intact
throughout the centuries out of a deep
respect and reverence for the past.
`ramp mentality' of higher, more and
bigger is better that's not the case
here. Kinosaki is an expression of the
eastern philosophy of the continuum.
I'm reminded of the lyrics of the
Sunrise and sundown;
The Moon rolls thru the night time;
Till the daybreak comes around.
But I can't tell you why;
The Season's spinning round again;
The years keep rollin' by.
company operating several restaurants
in the Kobe/Himeji areas, and in
Kinosaki they manage both the
Nishimuraya Hotel Shogetsutei and
the Nishimuraya Honkan which,
according to the Japan edition of
Lonely Planet, is rated the best hot-
spring ryokan in the best onsen town.
hospitality and service) to their guests
from Japan and all over the world and
they definitely live up to this promise.
by a grand 165,000 square-metre
garden, which in turn is bordered by
a lush green forest. The lobby has the
ambience of a large Canadian ski lodge
built in the 1960s it's expansive, clad
in wood panelling and has floor-to-
ceiling display windows that serve
up a view of the mini waterfall and
rock garden.
fact that the entrance to our room
is a sliding door. Stepping in we feel
tatami mats (traditional rice-straw
floor covering) under foot and,
venturing further in, we are greeted
by shoji (translucent-paper room
dividers), which slide effortlessly
appointed with low furniture and
a sunken viewing deck looking out to
the forest.
samurai movies it is perfect. We are
so mesmerised we don't even notice
our attendant measuring the children
for their yukata mine and Michelle's
are hanging in the wardrobe.
explore the town and try our hand
at communal-bath hopping. There
are seven baths in all, aside from the
private ones in the ryokan.
garb is a slightly surreal experience,
yet it feels perfectly comfortable.
Our transformation to truly relaxed
beings has officially begun.
buy, as breakfast and dinner are
included in the room rate at every
ryokan), and after leaving sufficient
time for digestion, we make our way
to our first bathhouse for a decidedly
unique experience.
to overcome our modesty, my seven-
year-old son and I gingerly lower
ourselves in to the steaming-hot
outdoor bath. Following a few minutes
spent adjusting to the temperature,
the transition to altered states of
consciousness begins. As my son so
succinctly puts it,
"Dad, I have never felt so relaxed!"
charming streets, sampling post-bath
snacks and drinks from the shops