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WINING & DINING
The Sydney suburb of Surry Hills offers an abundance of outstanding dining
venues but for
Steven Macarounas, Bar H stands out from the crowd.
Having emerged as the epicentre of
gastronomic creativity in Sydney, Surry Hills
boasts some of the city's most inventive and
accessible dining experiences. A stroll through
the inner-city suburb's Melbourne-like lanes
yields exciting treasures at every turn ­ from
the rustic chic of the Latin American-inspired
Porteño and the strong Italian vibe at Vini and
121BCCantina&EnotecatoMarque,named
Australian Gourmet Traveller Restaurant of
the Year for 2012.
For me, a shining light in this bustling
destination is Bar H, owned and operated by
Hamish Ingham and Rebecca Lines.
Humble Head Chef Hamish classifies his
fare as `Asian homestyle cooking', but Bar H
offers an experience more akin to theatre than
a night at your local Chinese. The atmosphere
is effortlessly warm and `cool' ­ a paradox, I
know, but worth mentioning as it's extremely
rare to feel so comfortable and welcome
despite the obviously hip foodie vibe.
We are greeted by the genuinely
hospitable restaurant manager Nicole and
seated at the dimly lit bar overlooking
the kitchen, then have our coats and
drinks orders taken by ever-smiling Mikey
(assistant manager and sommelier). A feeling
of familiarity and belonging starts to creep
into our consciousness ­ it feels as though
we've arrived at an age-old friend's house for
a dinner party.
This sense is accentuated by the
seemingly effortless rhythm of meal
preparation unfolding in the kitchen in
front of us and followed up by the clear
explanation of menu options. It's almost
like a scene out of The Big Chill, but with an
updated soundtrack.
Chefs Renee and Roy perform before
us with both meticulous precision and
unmistakable pride and joy ­ they really love
what they do, and it shows. Waitress Paloma
and Handy the kitchen hand (yes, that's his
moniker) round out the quintet of players,
all of whom are perfectly synchronised to
the movements of each other in a display of
natural choreography.
Then there's the food.
ON THE MENU
Our table opted for a mix of dishes to share:
·Steamedpork&prawnwontonswith
chillioil&redvinegar
·Sashimiofoceantroutwithseaweed
&radishsalad
·Steamedporkbunswithfreshcoriander,
Vietnamesemint&chilli
·Crispricenoodleswithsweetsoy,peanut,
bonitoflakes&truffle
·Salt&Sichuanpeppercalamariwitha
side of kim chi
·Crispspatchcockwithstrangepepper
sauce ­ a mix of native pepperberry,
greenpepper&Sichuanpepper
·Steamedhapukafilletwithginger
&shallots
·Caramelisedbeefribbraisedin
masterstock then caramelised.
Served with pickled yam bean,
shiso&pickledmustardgreens
·Pomegranatetapiocawithcoconutfoam
&candiedcacaonibs
·Sorbets­bloodorangewithCampari
&lemonicedtea
·Chocolatetruffles­passionfruit
&darkchocolate
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