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heat later in the day. All the vents in my jacket were open,
but barely sufficient in the mid 20's Celsius temperature.
Saddling back up I rode along the estuary, south towards
the castle and again being forced to stop and take yet
another picture of the azure water stretching across to East
Portlemouth and out towards the Channel, somewhat
enviously eyeing the boats coming and going. Crossing
South Sands
"You just keep me hanging on." © Lou Reed
I turned up a small valley and up a lovely short stony climb
at Combe, again a doddle in the dry but would be a
challenge in the wet. After a farm track at Collaton and a
ride through the pretty hamlet of Marlborough with its
whitewashed thatched cottages and scarlet rambling roses
over their doors, this was the South Hams in its prime. Lunch
was to be taken at the end of a dead end lane at Galmpton
which runs into a footpath a couple of hundred metres from
the cliff edge. However, a conveniently placed gate into a
corn field provided me with the view I was looking for.
Munching on the aforementioned sweaty cheese and onion
sarnie, sat on the gate, I feasted my eyes on the coast before
me. Thurlestone rocks in the foreground, stretching away to
Bantham beach at the mouth of the Avon, Bigbury and the
famous Burgh Island and onto the headland at the mouth of
the Yealm beyond. Burgh Island of course is famous as the
website tells us: "Burgh Island Hotel is an iconic Devon
landmark, a shining white ocean liner, moored on its own
tidal island, surrounded by golden beaches and silver seas.
Built in 1929, extended in 1932 and now restored to its
'30s glamour, the Burgh Island Hotel is a retreat out of time
like none other."
Frequented between the wars by luminaries
such as Noel Coward and Agatha Christie, it's pretty
exclusive, rooms are £450 a night upwards, or half a trail
bike in my currency! Still breakfast and an evening meal are
thrown in!
After passing the time of day with a few jolly hikers, time
was getting on and I still had loads of lanes to pack in so set
off and rode the longish lane at South Milton which promised
a coastal view, but high hedges and the lie of the land only
provided distant views of twinkling channel waters with
container ships slipping by on the horizon. Another UCR east
of South Milton, signalled my long trek home, via the Avon
Valley. Riding down the A road to Aveton Gifford allowed
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