W Clockwise from top left: Sunset on the Golden Horn, with the Yavuz Selim mosque on the skyline. Intricate blue tiles adorn the walls of the Harem of Topkapi Palace. A traditional Turkish bath at the luxuriously restored Aya Sofya hammam. Luxury sunbathing at a Bodrum resort. Crew in ate a hot air balloon in preparation for a ight over Cappadocia. WHOOSH! BRIGHT ORANGE FLAMES above our heads blast more hot air into the giant balloon. (Check hair. Singed? No.) We float up, up, up into the yellowing dawn sky. Our chest-high basket, holding just four of us and our balloon pilot, is but a dot gliding over a surreal lunar landscape. We drift over “fairy chimneys” – fantastic rock pinnacles, some 150 feet high, that look like toadstools. And we descend into a red-baked gorge where centuries-old cave houses and churches, cut high up into the rock sides, are clearly visible. At one point, we get so close we see a fox scampering along a plateau, before we gently rise again. This is Cappadocia. Up to 100 balloons take off each day for a bird’s eye view of Cappadocia’s extraordinary terrain, said to be the set location for the original Star Wars movie. Despite being woken up at 4:00 a.m. (simultaneously by a wake-up call and the reverberating Muslim call to prayer outside), our Royal Balloon ride is worth every thrilling moment – from gaping at the deflated balloon first being filled with air on the ground (a spectacle of fire) to the traditional champagne toast after touchdown. But Cappadocia is just one highlight of a visit to Turkey. The whole country makes for an epic trip. Turkey is a fascinating mix of East-meets-West, with an exotic history, mindblowing scenery, amazing ancient ruins and some of the tastiest food you’ll ever bite into. From beaches to balloon rides to bazaars, Turkey dazzles with its array of beguiling experiences. Starting in Istanbul, we tour the Topkapi Palace. Home to sultans of the former Ottoman empire, its most famous exhibits are the emerald-encrusted Topkapi dagger and glittering 86-carat Spoonmaker’s diamond. In the imperial harem, your imagination is apt to run wild. But a new exhibit aims to squelch any misperceptions about the juicier aspects of harem life. We learn the harem was also a center of education for concubines, making them suitable marriage partners for courtiers and elite soldiers. It’s fitting that we follow our palace visit with a traditional Turkish bath at Roxelana’s old bathing temple. Originally built in 1556, the Aya Sofya hammam reopened in 2008 after a multi-million dollar restoration; men and women each have their own sections. Wrapped in a silk loincloth, you pour warm water over yourself from a gold bowl while lounging in a luxurious, steaming, white marble room. An attendant then scrubs you down with a rough goatskin mitt until your skin is baby smooth. This is followed by a massage with soap and water on a heated marble bench. It’s all quite dreamy and beats the quick utilitarian showers we take back home. One day, we book a 90-minute cruise up the Bosphorus Canal in a local passenger ferry. Onboard, vendors hawk hot black tea in tulip-shaped glasses as we putter past grand villas. Other days, we visit the opulent 19th century Dolmabahce Palace (14 tons of gold gild its ceilings), the Blue Mosque (named for its blue-tiled interior) and the historic Grand Bazaar (one of the world’s oldest and largest markets). We also taste our first mezes (small shared appetizers) in Istanbul. At Meze by Lemon Tree, we sample delectable eggplant rolled with braised escargot, plums and mustard. 44 CRUISE HOLIDAYS GEORGE MUCALOV