LINDA CRAWLEY That evening was divine, starting with dinner at Captain David Bathgate’s table. Over a feast of caviar, sea bream, marinated lobster tail, herbed rack of lamb, and a mouthwatering dessert, we met two American couples who have remained friends. Back in our suite, we opened the French balcony and watched the stars, canoodling like honeymooners. We rose before dawn the next morning, to see the sun rise over the stunning fjord-like entrance to Montenegro’s Kotor Bay and the black mountains that prompted its name. After tendering ashore to meet private guides, we embarked on an energetic tour, starting with a steep climb up the stone steps of the 15th century city walls. After exploring the city, we hopped in a motorboat to two tiny isles, and then we sped to uber-luxe Porto Montenegro, where the marina and pool attract some of the world’s richest yachtsmen. Our next call was at Corfu and from the ancient fort, a short walk led to Austrian Princess Elisabeth’s opulent Achillion Palace. Steps away, the old city core bustled, its gesticulating shopkeepers eager for Euros. We stumbled into historic remnants of Corfu’s diverse religious heritage: a little church with a towering bell tower and a small synagogue with stained glass windows. Brindisi was thrilling, not for the port itself, but for our private excursion to Lecce, “Florence of Apulia.” A jewel of Baroque architecture, its ornately embellished buildings are carved of unique Leccese stone. We saw the Roman amphitheater and the breathtaking Santa Croce church. Then, a must for art aficionados, the studio of Marco Epicochi, the papier-mâché artist who creates some of the world’s most sought-after nativity scenes. That evening, Chef de Cuisine Martin Kitzing showcased his talent with a creative tasting menu including seared beef carpaccio, champagne sorbet, tournedos Rossini, and a raspberry soufflé. Seabourn Spirit glides into Venice’s Grand Canal in the early morning mist. Below left: Balcony Suite. Below right: Personal Suite Stewardess. CRUISE HOLIDAYS 39